Thin, aromatic roti wrapping silky strings of spun sugar that look like cotton candy but taste like something from a more sophisticated universe. The Muslim community in Thailand has passed these recipes down for generations, and the best shops have been perfecting the technique for decades. Watching the production is mesmerizing—sugar being pulled into impossibly thin threads, roti being stretched translucent on hot griddles. Roti Sai Mai Abeedeen-Pranom Sangaroon earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition, which for a street dessert is remarkable.