The "Dragon's Belly"—narrow alleyways Google Maps can't navigate properly—hides the best murals and most photogenic chaos. You'll get lost, which is half the experience.

Mother Roaster Cafe and other hipster establishments infiltrate the neighborhood, creating tension between preservation and gentrification. Visit now before it becomes entirely sanitized.

Guide essential: Navigating the maze of alleys, explaining Chinese immigrant history, finding the murals tourists miss, understanding which cafes are worth visiting versus tourist traps.